Other People's Homes (7) Manoel Theatre Valletta - Sometime Home To Beggars

By Olivia Hughes | Submitted On September 06, 2006 Recommend Article Article Comments Print Article Share this article on Facebook Share this article on Twitter Share this article on Google+ Share this article on Linkedin Share this article on StumbleUpon Share this article on Delicious Share this article on Digg Share this article on Reddit Share this article on Pinterest No trip to Malta could be complete without a visit to Valletta's little Manoel Theatre. One time home to beggars, down-and-outs and tramps now home to over 6,000 theatre costumes. Located in Old Theatre Street, this fascinating purpose built baroque building is an architectural jewel. It is said to be the third oldest theatre in Europe still in use and the oldest theatre in the Commonwealth. It dates back to the earlier decades of the eighteenth century, when the Grandmaster of the Knights of St. John of that time, Antonio Manoel de Vilhena decided in 1731 to build a public theatre 'for the honest recreation of the people' according to the Latin inscription above the doorway. The 650-seat auditorium is quite unlike a conventional 20th century theatre, originally u-shaped it was transformed to an oval at the beginning of the 19th century. With a tiny stage and orchestra pit, the stalls seat only 272, but above them and beneath the gilded ceiling and magnificent crystal chandelier are three full tiers of boxes, including one very discreet grand-master's box. Beneath the theatre are two wells that serve to give the exceptional acoustics for which the theatre is renowned. The original theatre was smaller than the present one, as today's gallery and proscenium were added in 1812. It was also narrower, as boxes were also situated on the ground floor. Patrons in those far off days used to dance to the pieces in production, so the parterre would be illuminated during performances. All the delicate frescoes are of Mediterranean scenes bordered in 22-carat gold leaf. Originally it was called 'Public Theatre', later it bore the title 'Theatre Royal' but, eventually in 1866 in tribute to its founder, it became and has remained the Manoel Theatre. The first night of all first nights was on 9th January 1732 with a presentation of 'Merope' a grand tragedy in the classic style, by Scipione Maffei. The setting was designed by Francois Moudion, who was the architect of the Order of St John and it was played by the Knights. The theatre was run by a Senior Knight of the Order who bore the title of 'Protettore' and managed the house generally approving each season's programme of plays. Nicolo Isouard became the 'Protettore' or Commissioner during the French occupation of Malta in the last two years of the eighteenth century but the troubled times bore their toll and the players could no longer bear the strains of war and dark days followed for the Manoel. With the arrival of the British the theatre came to life again and throughout the first half of the nineteenth century there was a nine-month season of opera each year from September to May. In 1812 when the theatre was redecorated by British General Sir George Whitmore, the engineer responsible for the works introduced the proscenium arch, dismantled the ground floor stone boxes to erect wooden ones complete with decorated panels and raised the ceiling so that the theatre became a storey higher. During this period there were nights of splendour like 4th December 1838 when Queen Adelaide, widow of King William IV came with cheers, anthems and a guard of honour to see a performance of 'Lucia di Lamermoor' by Gaetan Donizette. Strangely it was the very prosperity of the latter years of the nineteenth century which brought the eclipse of the Manoel Theatre. The large garrison, the fleet and an increasing number of tourists rendered the theatre inadequate and in 1861 it became private property. With the proceeds of the sale the Royal Opera House was built and Grandmaster Antonio de Vilhena's little house fell into disuse and served as a home to beggars. Some of the old glory returned when the Royal Opera House was destroyed by fire in 1873. Grand opera replaced the evicted beggars until the Opera house was reconstructed and then the once loved little place in Theatre Street looked to be on its deathbed. It served fitfully as a dance hall and, in this century as a cinema. But then once more the fate of the Opera House brought revival to the Manoel when the former was completely destroyed in the Second World War. Dreams of bringing the Manoel back to life turned to reality when the Malta Government acquired the building in response to public appeal. Experts from Britain and Italy were called in and under their supervision and with loving care the delicate process of restoration was carried out. On one splendid December night in 1960 the famous Ballet Rambert Company's presented 'Coppelia' at the grand opening performance. Some 40 years later and the theatre is now in the fourth phase of another restoration project that includes bringing out the original shades of blue on the three layers of panels on the flat ceiling which are darker towards the border and lighter in the centre - a visual effect which, when seen from below, gives a trompe-l'oeuil effect of a round cupola, similar to the technique used in the flat "cupola" of the Chiesa del Gesù in Rome. The Theatre foyer is now the restored Bonici Palace, a grand eighteenth-century palazzo adjoining the theatre on the corner of Old Theatre and Old Bakery Streets. The internal Central Courtyard of the Palace serves as a hub of the new theatre complex acting not only as a foyer to the auditorium but a meeting place for coffee and lunches and a venue for art exhibitions, recitals, lectures and poetry readings. Courtyards are important in traditional Maltese domestic architecture because they capture the cool heavy night air that filters out laterally through surrounding rooms during the day. But to act as the theatre foyer all year round it had to be enclosed from winter storms while being able to perform its traditional climate control and social functions. The architects have evolved a steel and glass roof, made in slightly curved sections which can be moved by individual motors according to weather and season. The old building however has retained many fascinating features such as the white Carrara marble stair case and shell-shaped niches, the wall brackets and chandeliers from Vienna, heavy silk curtains in bluey/green and gold, a pair of candelabra and, at the top of the stairs, a truly magnificent chandelier. Throughout there are engravings depicting characters and scenes from famous operas and showcases housing memorabilia of the Theatre collected throughout the years.